Are you a new pool owner?

Forgotten how to Vacuum, Backwash, Balance Chemicals…etc? 

...need a refresher?

 

No Problem! Champion Pools is here to help!

 

   We will come to your house and show you how to properly operate your equipment, and answer any questions you may have.  In order to make the most out of this service, we recommend that you write down any questions you may have AHEAD of time.  This will ensure you don’t miss anything, and will save you time and money!  Also, be sure to let us know if you require any other pool supplies or chemicals, so that we can deliver them to you during our visit! 

Please check out Pool Chemistry 101 below in the meantime.

 

Pool Chemistry 101

 

   There are the main chemical levels that every pool owner needs to keep track of:

• Free Chlorine - A sanitizer which keeps your pool water safe and free of germs. Chlorine is consumed by sunlight, and by breaking down organic material in your pool.  Chlorine levels must be checked most frequently.

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• Acidity (PH) - PH indicates how acidic or basic the water is. Needs to be kept in balance to prevent irritation and protect the pool equipment. (7.5 to 7.8 is ideal and levels between 7.2 and 8.0 are acceptable for swimming).  

• PH should be tested daily at first. Once you gain experience with your pool, less frequent monitoring may be appropriate. PH levels below 7.2 tend to make eyes sting or burn. PH below 6.8 can cause damage to metal parts, particularly pool heaters with copper heat exchange coils. High PH can lead to calcium scaling, and premature liner wrinkling that is permanent.

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• Total Alkalinity - Total alkalinity indicates the water's ability to buffer PH changes. Buffering means you need to use a larger quantity of a chemical to change the PH. At low TA levels, the PH tends to swing around wildly. At high TA levels, the PH tends to drift up.  Appropriate levels help keep the PH in balance. High levels can cause PH to rise. (60 to 120, sometimes higher).  Properly adjusted Alkalinity levels will result in a "sparkling" pool. Check weekly.

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• Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer or Conditioner) - Protects chlorine from premature deterioration due to sunlight and prolongs the life and effectiveness of Free Chlorine.  Aim for a Stabilizer reading of 70 to 80.  Although it is a quite expensive chemical, it is usually only required and added 1-2 times a year.

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• Salt - Required with a Salt Water chlorine Generator. The salt level required varies on which generating unit you are using, but is usually between 1500-3400ppm. These levels are less then one tenth of the salt level in ocean water, which has around 35,000 ppm of salt. You want the kind that is 99.4% pure or better. Typically add once a month. One bag at a time. One bag approximately raises salt levels by 300-500ppm.

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• Calcium Hardness - Calcium hardness indicates the amount of calcium in the water. Over time, water with low calcium levels will tend to dissolve calcium out of plaster, pebble, tile, stone, concrete, and to some extent fiberglass surfaces.  Appropriate levels help prevent plaster damage. High levels can cause calcium scaling. (220 to 350).  If you have a spa you might want to keep Calcium Hardness at at least 100 to 150 to reduce foaming.

 

War on Phosphates and Chlorimines!

 

   If you have had persistent trouble with visible algae and/or smelly (chlorine smell) pool water, every year - and it always seems to come back, you may have a Phosphate or Chloramine problem in your pool. Excess Phosphate and Chloramine levels present in swimming pools, typically cause the following symptoms:

• Cloudy, Green Water

• Slippery and Slimy Surfaces

• Mustard and Green Coloured Debris

• Excessive Chemical Consumption

• Poor Water Quality

• Pool has Chlorine smell

 

Phosphates

What are Phosphates?

• Phosphates are basically plant food.

Why is this a problem?

• This is a problem because Algae is a plant.  This presence of this food increases and accelerates Algae growth within swimming pools.

Where does it come from?

• Runoff from ground water, decayed plant matter, waste from pool users, acid rain, sweat, contaminated well water, urine and bird droppings can all contribute to phosphate problems.

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Chloramines

What are Chloramines?

• Chloramines are chemical compounds that build up in pool water when it is improperly treated. They are a by product of "used" chlorine. Pool smell is due, not to chlorine, but to chloramines.

Why is this a problem?

• Excessive Chloramine build up will cause the well known, unwanted, "pool smell" of Chlorine.  

• Healthy, well balanced pool water, will have no smell. 

• Pool water with excessive Chloramine levels will lead to irritation to the eyes, lungs and skin of swimmers.

Where does it come from?

• Chloramines result from the combination of two ingredients: (a) chlorine disinfectants and (b) perspiration, oils and urine that enter pools on the bodies of swimmers.

• Chlorine disinfectants are added to pool water to destroy germs that can give swimmers diarrhea, ear aches and athlete's foot.

• Perspiration, oils and urine, however, are unwanted additions to pool water.

• The Chlorine produces a by-product Chloramine as it destroys these contaminants. 

• *PRO TIP* Limit the use of your solar blanket to overnight, in order to allow Chloramines to evaporate (and diminish) during the midday heat!

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CONTACT US to fix the problem!